Can these shampoos wash away woes?

There has been a rise in scalp problems over the past 18 months, suggest experts.

‘We’ve seen an increase in many inflammatory skin conditions, and I’m sure this is due in part to an increase in stress owing to Covid,’ says Dr Justine Hextall, a consultant dermatologist at Tarrant Street Clinic in Arundel, West Sussex.

From psoriasis to dandruff and folliculitis (inflamed hair follicles), a host of health problems can affect the delicate skin covering the head.

But will a medicated shampoo — which can cost up to four times as much as standard shampoo — help? We asked experts to review a selection of the latest products. We then rated them.

For itchy/flaky scalps Moksha Beauty London Tea Tree & Lavender Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

250ml, £9, amazon.co.uk

Claim: Uses lavender, as well as antifungal and antibacterial tea tree oil to ‘help to prevent dandruff and alleviate dry and itchy scalps’.

Expert verdict: ‘Small studies support the anti-dandruff benefits of tea tree oil in a relatively high 5 per cent concentration, as it’s thought to kill the scalp-dwelling malassezia yeast,’ says Dr Hextall. 

‘But it’s not clear from the label how much this contains. Tea tree oil can also be an irritant for sensitive skins. You can find much better studied anti-dandruff ingredients such as zinc pyrithione in pharmacy-bought shampoos.’ 

5/10 Alphosyl 2-in-1 Medicated Shampoo

250ml, £9, boots.com

Claim: A shampoo containing coal tar for scalp conditions such as psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis, ‘reducing the skin scaling caused by these conditions’. Psoriasis usually causes red skin with white and thick scales of skin; seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff) leads to a red, itchy scalp with greasy-looking white/yellow flakes along the hair shaft.

Expert verdict: ‘The scalp is a common place for psoriasis, which not only feels sore but can cause skin scales to fall on to hair and clothes, making people very self-conscious,’ says Dr Hextall.

‘Coal tar has been used for more than 100 years to treat psoriasis. The mechanism isn’t fully understood but it seems to reduce the excess skin cell turnover causing itchy patches. This shampoo contains a high concentration (5 per cent). 

Studies have shown much lower concentrations (0.5 per cent) can be effective. High doses of coal tar can cause skin irritation and increased sensitivity to sunlight [and sunburn].’ 

6/10 Green People Men’s, No 10 Itch Away Shampoo

150ml, £15, greenpeople.co.uk

Claim: ‘Natural’ shampoo with tea tree oil, chamomile, aloe vera and pineapple enzymes to relieve an ‘itchy, flaky and irritated scalp’.

Expert verdict: ‘While tea tree oil is sensible, it’s not clear from the label exactly how much this contains,’ says Dr Hextall. 

‘The pineapple extract bromelain is a fruit acid with antibacterial properties — it can help encourage skin exfoliation by dissolving the glue-like bonds between dead skin cells, reducing flaking. The skin-soothing benefits of aloe vera and chamomile are well established. A nice product.’

7/10 Healpsorin Shampoo for dermatitis

500ml, £20.99, amazon.co.uk

Claims: Contains salicylic acid to exfoliate the scalp, ‘antimicrobial’ dermosoft decalact and comfrey extract to ‘stimulate skin cell proliferation’, and claims to ‘minimise dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis’.

Expert verdict: ‘Eczema, or dermatitis, is very common and affects skin anywhere — including the scalp,’ says Dr Sharon Wong, a consultant dermatologist at Homerton University Hospital, London. 

‘The most common scalp form is seborrheic dermatitis, caused by an overgrowth of malassezia yeasts.

‘These feed off sebum naturally released from oil glands attached to hair follicles, releasing oleic acid, which causes skin irritation in some people. Stress and cold weather can worsen symptoms.

‘Dermosoft decalact is a palm oil derivative with cleansing and antibacterial properties — research shows it can reduce malassezia.

‘There’s no research showing if comfrey has specific exfoliation benefits, as the company suggest. The salicylic acid helps dissolve the bonds of dead skin cells, removing excess flaking. 

6/10 Reduce Flaky Scalp + Promote Hair Growth Shampoo Bar

£15.54, bundleoforganic.co.uk

Claim: A shampoo bar containing castor oil, shea butter, coconut oil, baobab seed oil, rosemary, lavender and turmeric. ‘Our selected oils stimulate the scalp and increase circulation, reducing flaky scalp and promoting hair

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