Veganism: it’s one of the triumphal movements of our time. Everywhere you go, shiny, happy vegans proclaim the ethical and physical benefits of embracing a ‘plant-based’ lifestyle.
Our supermarkets are full of meat-free delicacies, from jackfruit pizzas to ‘chilli non-carne’, the market for non-dairy milks has exploded — and celebrities from Bill Clinton to Benedict Cumberbatch are on-side.
Go to the Vegan Society website and you can fill up on pro-vegan statistics, from the numbers of enthusiastic newbies who signed up to ‘Veganuary’ to why milk is bad news for cows.
Last month, the stakes were raised even higher following a report commissioned and published by The Lancet, the august journal of the British medical establishment.
Devised by a consortium of 37 international scientists, the ‘Planetary Health Diet’ put forward a radical plan to cut meat consumption by more than half globally in an effort to slow climate change and increase general health.
Veganism: it’s one of the triumphal movements of our time. Everywhere you go, shiny, happy vegans proclaim the ethical and physical benefits of embracing a ‘plant-based’ lifestyle
A plant-based diet, the authors concluded, was not only far healthier for humans, but may also turn out to be the planet’s salvation.
On the surface, then, this fashion for veganism may not seem a bad thing. We all eat too many saturated fats, and reducing the amount of meat and dairy in our diets is good, especially if it leads to a reduction in intensive farming practices in the long-term.
But animal produce in moderation is not what’s on the menu here. Veganism accepts nothing less than a complete rejection of all animal-derived foodstuffs. So even things that don’t require the slaughter of the animal — such as eggs, yoghurt and cheese — are off the menu purely on the basis that they are exploitative. You can’t have honey because that’s stealing from the bees.
Mad as this may sound, the fact remains that, since 2016, the number of people following a vegan lifestyle has risen from around half a million in the UK to a whopping 3.5 million.
According to the Vegan Society, ‘going vegan’ was the biggest food trend for 2018. And so it was that in the interests of research, a month ago, I decided to see what the fuss was all about, and become a vegan myself.
My aim was not only to experience veganism first hand, but also to see whether the much-vaunted benefits — weight loss, improved energy, better sleep, brighter skin — were real.
Also, I suffer from hereditary high cholesterol, and am contemplating starting statins to reduce it. Perhaps a vegan diet would help lower my levels? And, I figured, how hard could it be? These days, the supermarkets are well-stocked with vegan options and even Greggs now offers a vegan sausage roll.
First, I had to consult a nutritionist. I met Jackie McCusker, a nutritional therapist who specialises in hormonal health (I suffer from an underactive thyroid, which causes all sorts of pesky health problems, from hair loss to weight gain).
I explained my plan to her, and we went through my health history and details of my recent weight loss of 3st.
She could see no reason why veganism wouldn’t work for me — although she did sound a few cautionary notes.
Our supermarkets are full of meat-free delicacies, from jackfruit pizzas to ‘chilli non-carne’, the market for non-dairy milks has exploded
In particular, she explained that it is important to remember that only animal proteins (meat, fish, eggs, dairy) contain all nine amino acids that our bodies require to function correctly. With the exception of soy, plant-based proteins may lack one or two (usually lysine and methionine).
Therefore, she stressed, I had to be mindful of eating a wide variety of plant-based proteins (eg, soy, legumes, nuts, seeds, cereals) and high-protein cereals, including quinoa and oats.
Armed with these facts, I stocked up on all the necessaries and broke the news to my family. My children who, at 14 and 15, I’d thought might be quite sympathetic to my project, were horrified. ‘Does this mean I can’t have sausages?’ asked my son, eyeing my box of silken tofu with a look of genuine alarm.
‘Have you actually gone senile?’ was the response of my daughter, someone who considers Nando’s practically her second home.
Actually, as I quickly discovered, going vegan does not mean sacrificing taste or variety. Quite the opposite, in fact.
I found myself using an array of new ingredients — from chickpeas to beetroot — that previously wouldn’t have crossed my radar in pursuit of bulk and flavour. My blender, rarely deployed save for the occasional smoothie, was pressed into daily service, whizzing up herbs and pulses and the ubiquitous avocado.
I discovered a few excellent sources of ideas, in particular quick and easy recipes from the boys from Bosh!, aka Ian Theasby and Henry Firth, which were a lot of fun to make. Vegan cooking is a publishing phenomenon, with everyone from household names (Jamie Oliver, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall) to newer arrivals getting in on the act. I predominately ate home-made meals using my slow cooker (which is very handy for adding flavour), munching down lots of sweet potatoes, chickpeas, herbs and spices along with tofu, chia seeds and nuts. I didn’t really bother with meat substitutes. I also tried substitutes such as vegan spread, vegan cheese (weirdly addictive), nut butters, oat milk and oat creme fraiche. Rococo do a fantastic range of vegan chocolate (vital).
I ate more fruit than I normally do — I try to avoid too much because of the sugars, but on a vegan diet you need bananas, apples and dates.
As I quickly discovered, going vegan does not mean sacrificing taste or variety. Quite the opposite, in fact
Out and about, Pret a Manger’s vegan offerings are very good, especially their vegan sandwich and tomato soup.
Vegan Magnums — coconut-based — were a big hit; in fact, there are lots of ice-cream options out there for vegans. As for alcohol, some wines use animal products in the filtering process (God knows why). But otherwise wine is essentially vegan — good news.
The degree to which veganism has spawned an entire, thriving food industry of its own — from evangelical Instagrammers to dear old M&S, whose range of vegan ready-meals is every bit as enticing and indulgent as their other food, is truly astonishing.
When even McDonald’s starts offering a vegan option (a red pesto goujon wrap, since you ask), you just know that the moneymen are salivating.
And where
